New Orleans Lowdown
A recap on the greatest food city in America.
Well, well, well, have things changed in Hudson, NY or what? Honestly, when I last left this place, it was covered in snow and I was starting to think maybe I am not cut out to live upstate. This week, the sun is shining and the outdoor farmer’s market returns. A big reason I want to live in this area is to have more access to incredible farmers and makers. The Hudson Farmer’s Market does an excellent job of showcasing local produce, bakers, florists, local dairy, cheese and winemakers, along with an area with chairs where you can sit (and lay down those loaded up bags of eggs and produce) and watch live folk music. In the dead of Winter, I started to feel tricked: the farmer’s market moves indoors, the vendors really slim down, and it’s about a 2 mile walk from our little apartment.
In another turn of surprising events, I’ve also made a new friend. Have we talked about how difficult it is to make friends in a new city? I’ve been here for six months - and I’ve definitely put myself out there in all the ways you’re supposed to when you move to a new place, but it’s been a real challenge to connect with people in meaningful ways. My husband reminded me that it’s been cold and I’ve been cooped up inside a tiny apartment, where I’ve been writing and testing recipes. True, but still, it would be nice to sit across from someone face to face and have an actual conversation about life.
Enter Ben! Ben is 72, a published author, a dog trainer and the son of a (now deceased) famous author. He’s also recently relocated to Hudson and finding it difficult to make new friends. When we made a date for hamburgers, I wasn’t sure what we would talk about, but turns out that Ben likes books (same!). He really loves dogs (same!). He likes to run - as in for exercise (not the same, but that’s okay).
What a surprising detour from the typical conversations I have with friends of my own age (marriage, babies, careers, skincare, our parents, Instagram, politics). Ben wanted to discuss books, authors, films, love, the unspoken language between dogs and humans, heartbreak, the importance of friendship throughout his well-lived life (so far, he says), and…..Eudora Welty and Bill Maxwell. I know this isn’t going to resonate with everyone, so I’ll keep it short. Two years ago, I read, and absolutely loved, What There Is to Say We Have Said. Turns out, Bill Maxwell was a close family friend and advisor to Ben. Did I take this opportunity to run my book idea by Ben, a published author who is very well connected? You bet I did.
Here’s some of Ben’s advice for writing:
Only you can write the story you have to tell. This was in response to me saying that I had an idea for a book, but perhaps he could write it because a) I’m too busy cooking. And b) I can’t write.
Your first draft - your second draft, and quite possibly, your third draft will probably not be any good. I asked if he taught writing courses. A few years ago, he taught a community writing course. He said there’s a problem with today’s young writers: “they don’t want to hear what you have to say about their writing. They just want to hear how good they are at writing”. Wow!
15 minutes a day. Set a timer and write 15 minutes per day. Don’t edit. Don’t research. Just write a moment in the story. It could be a full page or one paragraph, or just a single sentence.
You’ll never make any real money, at least not anytime soon. Ben’s father, a famous and well-known published author “lived off of oats and raisins” for many years. I let Ben know it’s the exact same in cooking. No one cooks to earn actual money.
Alright, here’s the lowdown on New Orleans. A full list of almost everything we ate in the greatest food city in America.
If you are interested in learning more about New Orleans, please do me a favor and watch True South’s New Orleans episode. Italian influences can be seen all over New Orleans, from food to architecture. If you look closely at some of the older homes, you can spot colorful hand painted Italian ceramic tiles along the exteriors.
Anyone, and everyone, will tell you to go to Cafe Du Monde but, will they tell you to skip the line and enter the side door if you’re unfortunate enough to be in the French Quarter in the middle of summer heat? Or that you should hit up the one in City Park - much more relaxed! Also, the water isn’t for drinking, but for cleaning your hands? And please, whatever you do, don’t wear black. And bring cash. There are no other options on the menu besides café au lait, beignets and orange juice. All of which are perfect. Also, I want to ask you a serious question: do you think beignets are French or Italian?
Of course you should eat at Emeril’s and Commander’s Palace. And you can hardly beat a Friday lunch at Galatoire’s (jackets required for men) - Shrimp Remoulade! Oysters Rockefeller!
The dark roux gumbo and all of the desserts at Herbsaint. Murder Point oysters (from ALABAMA!) at 5’s Bar on Jackson’s Square. Certainly stop for oysters at Pascal’s Manale where Uptown T has been shucking for over 35 years.
You absolutely must go to all of these places, especially if it’s your first trip to New Orleans. I know you don’t have all day to read about New Orleans, so I’ve highlighted the places I personally love and can vouch for (or against!). For example, out of the six suppers we enjoyed in New Orleans, these were my three favorites. If you are traveling for an event like Jazz Fest or any sort of festival, you should book dinner reservations in advance.
I also want to call out St. Pizza, a grab-and-go slice pizza window. Great martinis and two words: Green Pie (!). Pro-tip - instead of waiting for an almost impossible to get table, grab a slice at the window and take it next store to their wine shop / bar Patron Saint and eat your slice at the bar.
Dinner Spots
This place is always at the top of my list when it comes to New Orleans, especially if I’m with someone who has not spent much time in the south. There are just some things that can’t be explained about southern food, but the people at La Petite will show you how it’s done. I recommend the blue crab beignets, shrimp & grits and butterscotch pudding. On Monday’s, they serve traditional red beans and rice with a fried chicken thigh and a slice of cornbread. Be sure to ask for a side of their house hot sauce, no matter what you order. This is a really nice meal for a very reasonable price point!
If you want to experience Italian food in New Orleans, look no further than Irene’s. I first ate here nearly 20 years ago and it’s been one of my favorites ever since. Sicilian roots run deep here and you will spot them everywhere on the menu and throughout the decor of the space. If it’s a nice day, try to sit on the patio - even if only for a drink and an appetizer. The Siciliano is my favorite cocktail in all of New Orleans.
I hesitate to mention this spot, because it is not easy to get into for a full dinner and it’s a touch too pricey. Out of two weeks of traveling and eating out, this was our most expensive dinner. It’s been on my list for a very long time and I wanted to guarantee the full dinner experience, so I booked a reservation in advance. In hindsight, we probably could’ve just walked in and sat at the bar - which is what I recommend you to do. You’ll eat things like stuffed crab heads, oyster soup, crawfish bisque with stuffed crawfish heads (this was one of the most delicious things I ate the entire trip). Located in an old home, complete with a garden patio, you’ll feel like you’ve entered a whole new dream of a world. The service was five star, but if I had it to do all over again - I would’ve just squeezed in at the bar.
Bakeries
There are too many, you’ll never get to all of them. My advice is to seek out the one that is closest to you. I really love Bellegarde Bakery, Leo’s Bread (also at the farmer’s market on Thursdays), Levee Baking, Laginappe Bakehouse, Bearcat and Flour Moon Bagels.
Sandwiches
How much time do we have to talk about sandwiches? There is no shortage of them in New Orleans, and they are all delicious. I will admit that we split a Central Grocery muffuletta and I found it to be overly salty. I tried not to be too disappointed! I haven’t had one since maybe 2014, so it had been a minute. I still love the experience of being in Central Grocery and it’s an important place to me personally because this is the place where (I think I was 26?!) I was inspired to start cooking and learn more about southern food and my Italian roots. Now that we’ve been making our own salami, cured ham, mortadella and pig head porchetta, all of which can be found on a properly made muffuletta. I’m completely ruined from eating packaged deli meats and I felt very saddened by that for the rest of the afternoon.
This was my first Turkey & The Wolf experience and while I wasn’t let down, it wasn’t complete perfection in the way that I had imagined it would be. This place has received A LOT of accolades and press for a good reason though. I really loved the collard green melt - it was absolutely delicious! If you’re there on the day when they are serving a wedge salad - get it. We also ordered the fried bologna sandwich, which I where I kinda feel let down (but I mean, like ever so slightly!). By the time we each had a sandwich in front of us, it all started to feel like too much for lunch. The oversized Texas toast, the fried bologna, the potato chips in the sandwich and Duke’s mayo (these guys have a dispenser just for Duke’s, in addition to all of the love notes from Duke’s taped to the walls) - this one sandwich could easily serve two people. Also, I’m a Hellman’s girl - so maybe it’s just me? Still, mad respect for this place and Mason. Recommend the collard green melt, wedge salad and of course, sweet tea.
If I could do that day over again, I’d start at Molly’s for breakfast and split a fried chicken biscuit and carrot yogurt - then shop around a little on Magazine, before walking over to Turkey & The Wolf for the collard green melt and salad. Both of these spots are owned by the same group - they are super fun places in terms of decor and music, and serving really delicious food.
If you are in the French Quarter, and anywhere near Cochon Butcher around lunch time - here’s where to go for a sandwich or a burger. This is one of Link’s spots - also great as a pit stop after Jazz Fest/before bar hopping. I can’t operate like that anymore, but some of you are still young enough to do it! If you want a muffuletta in New Orleans, I now recommend this over Central Grocery. I’m sorry - yell at me in the comments. I left this trip inspired to find a way to bring the muffuletta back to Darke Pines.
For me, this is the motherland of all sandwiches. It isn’t fancy. They are not trying to be cool here. This place is ran by two women who look like they should be retired, but are most definitely not retiring anytime soon. Women have ruled this house of sandwich making for a very long time. If you don’t know Dot, learn more here. She’s my personal hero! I love the catfish po’boy which is the only sandwich I’ve ever ordered at Domilise’s since I was 16. And yes, you want it “fully dressed”.
Honorable Mentions
Just pin these on your map - and when you start to feel hungry, one of them is bound to be close to you: Mother’s (house cured ham po’boy), Casamento’s (oyster loaf - also kind of a must see spot), Stein’s Market & Deli (muffuletta or the “Stoltzfus” sandwich – with scrambled eggs, corned beef or pastrami, Swiss cheese, and spicy brown mustard.), Parkway (shrimp or oyster po’boy, then hit Cafe Du Monde in City Park while you’re that far up), Dooky Chase’s (a little fancy for lunch, but also a must for fans of Leah Chase).
Snowballs
There’s a few places around town for a snowball, but none of them will be as good as Hansen’s Snow-Bliz. The anise and sweet tea are my favorites. If I get anise, I don’t get a second flavor. The sweet tea pairs well with a few things (mint, watermelon, vanilla, lemon). Will tried the ginger (spicy!) and watermelon. You really can’t put in a bad order. This well loved spot is family owned and currently operated by the granddaughter. Most of the syrups are made in-house and are all craveable, especially in the summer. Hansen’s is within walking distance of Domilise’s, Stein’s and Casatamento’s - really great post-lunch treat.
Just Killin’ Time
If you’ve got time to spare, here’s a few extra ways to kill it like a local.
Black Penny (French Quarter)
A no frills beer joint. A great spot to send anyone who needs a break from the French Quarter. This is more of a local spot, and if you sit at the far end of the bar, you can look out to Armstrong Park. I love that they don’t have a website, but they are on Facebook and Instagram (not that they’re posting regularly).
This might be the diviest of all dive bars in New Orleans. Depending on where you are staying, you’ll probably need to Uber to it. Sometimes they have food pop-ups and if they happen to have one while you’re in town, it’s worth the trip. We were definitely the oldest couple in Pal’s - it’s filled with a young and very chill crowd. If you’re up that way, go the The Bell (short walking distance, English Pub food vibes, frozen G&T’s or a proper pint of Guinness) for dinner and then spend the rest of your night at Pal’s where you can hang ‘til 3am.
14 rotating taps, all brewed onsite. If you’re lucky, Lady Nellie Oyster Farm will popup.
24 bars
You’re going to see a lot of bars with 24 signs - they don’t even add the /7, because honestly, that part makes no sense. These places are “always open” all day, every day. They are nothing but trouble. If you are in a bar after 2am or before 11am…well, like mama says - ain’t nothing good happening after midnight. I do wonder if my mama ever watched the sunrise in New Orleans, perhaps she would have a different opinion. In any case, here’s some 24 bars that can be real fun if you’re with a rowdy group. Mrs. Mae’s (“there’s nothing wrong with right now”), Le Bon Temps Roule, and Igor’s - where you can order a burger and do your laundry at 4am - this is where you’ll find all of the local service industry folks.
Some things that don’t involve booze.
I am not going to share all of the fancy cocktail spots. They are very easy to find and you’ll struggle to find a poorly made cocktail in New Orleans.
But, believe it or not, you can have a good time in New Orleans without drinking. I know, right? I love strolling Magazine Street on Fridays and weekends which is when most of the shops are open. You’ll find great coffee and cute southern boutiques. Two new places I discovered this time around: Piccola Gelateria (the husband makes the gelato and the wife manages the front), and Avis Aldine - a vintage kitchen and housewares shop in an old home. Avis describes it as a real-life Etsy shop - the prices are very affordable and the rooms are so fun to walk-through. Avis has a food background, but not as a stylist. I find that hard to believe because the entire space is immaculately curated. I bought a unique pair of custard cups for $12 each. I also love the Buffalo Exchange on Magazine - just fun to see what the locals are wearing and selling.
If you want to hear some live New Orleans jazz without having to pay a cover at a random bar, definitely book a show at Preservation Hall. It’s the perfect spot, especially if you are traveling with parents or little ones. Standing room only tickets are just as good as seated because it’s a small space - they cap at 50 people per show.
The National WWII Museum - Will enjoyed it, but I found it to be a little overwhelming. Other than exploring the Flying Tigers wing (my grandpa’s group), I wasn’t really into it. If you’re with someone who needs a break from The French Quarter, loves history and air conditioning (Will!) - maybe send them here for an afternoon? Definitely consider your audience. It’s touch pricey at $36/day pass which is a lot for a museum.
Getting Around
Uber is widely accessible and is very easy in NOLA. The St. Charles streetcar has been running since 1835, is the oldest continuously operating streetcar line in the world, and I definitely think you should get on it. You’ll need $1.25 in exact change for one ride (children aged five to 12th grade are $0.50 and seniors/riders with disabilities are $0.40). Prefer cashless? Download Le Pass, the official app of the New Orleans RTA.
The streetcars are not super reliable and they can get crowded. Definitely don’t wait around for one - just walk in the direction you want to go in and eventually the stars will align and you can hop on. You can find the other lines here. We stayed in an Airbnb and rode the streetcar twice, just mostly walked everywhere!
Y’all I think that’s it for me, for now. I’m deep in the weeds on recipe testing and apartment hunting. And now, I guess writing? Ben loved my book idea and thinks I should give it a go. 15 minutes - set. Write!
Thanks for being here - if you make the trip to New Orleans, please send me a note. I want to hear all about it!
Italian Cream Cake for Darke Pines, where Owner and chef Erica Allen infuses the operation with her Alabama roots, delighting Jersey City locals and beyond with little bits of southern comfort.
Ah I miss New Orleans so much. I’d love a snowball right now.
Love this! Reminds me of the Mortadella Focaccia sandwich recipe I adapted from L.A.-based Roman cuisine restaurant Mother Wolf for easy home cooking!
check it out:
https://thesecretingredient.substack.com/p/recreating-evan-funkes-la-mortazza